Should you splurge on admittedly expensive, pure, fresh olive oil?
Tom Mueller, author of a book on olive oil, says you should, both for the nutritional benefits and the superior taste of the product. But in an interview on CBC Radio today, he also warned that there are unscrupulous olive oil distributors out there. Some "pure" olive oils are actually adulterated with cheaper oils. Some products labelled "extra-virgin" are really not.
In Canada, the Canadian Food Inspection Agency tests imported olive oils and slaps fines on producers that are not up to standard. But that doesn't mean these products are taken off store shelves, according to a 2007 investigation by CBC's Marketplace. In addition, 2 out of 5 oils Marketplace bought off Canadian store shelves and had independently tested were clearly found to be adulterated.
Mueller's site lists international olive oil producers and mostly-U.S. stores that he personally recommends.
I have to admit I usually buy any olive oil sold in a dark bottle (since the oil is affected by light), that has a name I recognize, and that is on sale.
Buying sale-priced oil might not be the best strategy, if it's on sale because it's neared the end of its shelf life. Oil doesn't improve with age. Mueller recommends you look for a bottle labelled with a harvest date to be sure of freshness.
In Canada, www.oliveoilemporium.com lists harvest dates for its selection of oils, many of which are estate-produced. While ordering an estate-produced product isn't a guarantee that you'll like the taste of what's in the bottle, you might have a better chance of getting what you pay for. Would an "estate" olive grower and oil producer risk their reputation and business by putting their label on an inferior product?
You can see Marketplace's now five-year-old list of "busted" olive oil distributors here. Have these olive oil brands reformed? Are there new offenders now on the shelves? It would be nice to see a follow-up to this story.
And if you're spending good money on better olive oil, you might call a specialty food shop in your area and ask if they offer olive oil tasting. Buy what you like.
